{"id":3017,"date":"2013-07-21T12:06:42","date_gmt":"2013-07-21T19:06:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/learnbyblogging.com\/?p=3017"},"modified":"2015-06-03T18:07:14","modified_gmt":"2015-06-04T01:07:14","slug":"diy-curb-ramp-for-cars","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/learnbyblogging.com\/?p=3017","title":{"rendered":"DIY Curb Ramp for Cars"},"content":{"rendered":"

I have an extra car that’s parked on a RV (Recreational Vehicle) spot that doesn’t have a driveway (ramp). To save my cars’ shock absorber, I needed to get a car ramp. The cheapest plastic ramp I could get costs upward of $45 at Amazon (RhinoGear 11909<\/a>). I thought it would be fun to make one. <\/p>\n

At first, I made one with cement, the same one used to make fence post. It cost about $5. But structurally it’s brittle (I broke one of them because it didn’t mix the cement well) and heavy (40+ lbs, difficult to store away when not used, instead of 10 lbs when made of wood). So I came up with this idea of using a 8′ long 2×4 when it was on sale at Home Depot for less than $3. I cut the 2×4 (1.5″x3 3\/8″x8′) into the following segments:<\/p>\n

3x 16″ = 48″ (for the parallel-to-curb pieces)
\n4x 12″ = 48″ (for the orthogonal-to-curb pieces)<\/p>\n

Then I stacked them like match sticks. Next I drilled them using spade drill bits<\/a>:
\n3\/8″ first to drill through the stack. Then I use 5\/8″ spade drill for just 1\/2″ deep for the hex nut side (so the hex doesn’t stick out) (top side of the ramp) and use 3\/4″ spade drill for just 1\/2″ deep on the nut\/bottom side for just 1\/2″ so it’s easier to tighten the nuts on the bottom. The final pictures are here: <\/p>\n

\"2013-07-17<\/a><\/p>\n

\"2013-07-17<\/a><\/p>\n

Bottom View:
\n\"2013-07-21<\/a>
\nNow, here’s the final test:<\/strong><\/p>\n